djemila in algeria

Why Algeria is the Trending Destination for Culture Seekers

Algeria is not on many people’s radar. “Why are you travelling to Algeria?” friends and family kept asking me before this trip.

Algeria may not have the global fame of Morocco or Egypt, but it offers an incredible mix of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Roman ruins, Mediterranean cities, Sahara oasis towns, and some of the warmest hospitality I have experienced anywhere. For cultural travellers interested in archaeology, architecture, and layered history, Algeria is honestly a goldmine.

ancient ruins
The ruins at Djemila

While Morocco, Egypt, and even Tunisia attract millions of tourists every year, Algeria only get a fraction of international travellers. That may not remain the case for long. Algeria is actively trying to attract more visitors, and the visa process has become easier than it once was. Once word spreads about Algerian hospitality, more travellers will surely follow.

Read on and see if you agree with me that Algeria is an upcoming cultural destination. 

I will die and this place will continue to distribute fullness and beauty. Nothing to do with this idea. But on the contrary, a sense of gratitude and veneration.

What's in here

Oasis town in Mzab Valley

Algeria in a week

As Africa’s largest country and the world’s 10th-largest nation, Algeria looks intimidating on a map. Fortunately, most major sights can be visited within a week if you plan carefully around domestic flights.

This itinerary covers a week and four UNESCO World Heritage Sites:

moutains in algeria
In one week, you can realistically explore:
  • Algiers
  • Tipasa & Cherchell
  • Ghardaïa and the M’Zab Valley
  • Djemila
  • Constantine
If you have more time, I have included additional recommendations at the end.

A brief history of Algeria

Before diving into the itinerary, it helps to understand Algeria’s layered history. Algeria has a strong mix influences, so you’ll often hear people switching between languages like Arabic, Tamazight, and French in everyday conversation. During my trip, my limited French often came in handy.

Algeria’s identity reflects centuries of influence from Amazigh kingdoms, Phoenician traders, Roman colonists, Arab dynasties, Ottoman rulers, and French colonisation. After becoming part of the Roman Empire, the region played a role similar to Egypt. It supplied the empire with grain and olive oil, but also with more exotic commodities such as lions for the arenas, gold, ivory, and enslaved people. 

Monument in Algier
Especially the French colonisation is still very present in the minds of the Algerians – even in the young ones like our guides. If you only learn one historical fact about Algeria it should be this.

Discover the Cultural Sights in Algeria

The country is home to 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including some of North Africa’s finest Roman ruins. One moment you are looking at Roman ruins, the next at Ottoman palaces, French colonial buildings, or desert towns built like fortresses. I like countries with diverse cultures (and for bonus they often have the best food).

DAY 1-2: Algiers — Mediterranean Grandeur & Revolutionary History

waterfront in algier
The waterfront in Algiers

Algiers immediately surprised me. It had overwhelming Mediterranean vibes. Think Southern France. If people knew about this, they would not ask me why I was going.

The capital is located up hill from the sea. It is overlooking the islands where a Carthaginian trading-post was  in the 4th century BC. Today, it combines Ottoman heritage, French colonial architecture, and vibrant local life. The harbour is clearly still busy.

Algiers is not polished. Parts are worn down and broken. But culturally? Very interesting.

Kasbah of Algier

city of algier

The highlight is undoubtedly the Kasbah, a UNESCO-listed historic quarter made up of narrow alleyways, whitewashed houses, hidden courtyards, fountains, and centuries-old mosques. I spent hours wandering its maze-like streets.

Cats seemed to own the neighbourhood, children played football in small squares, and beautiful tilework appeared behind seemingly ordinary doorways. If you are ever in a city with an old Ottoman neighbourhood: go there!

The Kasbah is special, because it’s a unique example of an Islamic city with Ottoman palaces, historic mosques, and a traditional urban structure built around the community. It was also an important site during Algeria’s independence struggle against France.

Descending through the Kasbah eventually brings you to the harbourfront and Martyrs’ Square. Unfortunately, the entire area was under reconstruction when I visited, so I mostly saw fences and dust.

Centre ville

Post office

Descending from the Kasbah brings you to the city’s centre ville. The French colonial centre feels completely different from the Kasbah.

Wide boulevards, faded apartment blocks, balconies, cafés, and grand old buildings make parts of central Algiers feel oddly similar to Cairo’s downtown. The enormous Grande Poste is the architectural centrepiece. 

More sights in Algier

Algier has more sights like the Martyrs Memorial Bardo museum, the old Ketchaoua Mosque in the Kasbah,the Catholic Church of Notre-Dame d’Afrique and the Great Mosque. But going through all that is for a different article.

church in algier
Cathedral Notre-Dame d'Afrique

DAY 3 Tipasa & Cherchell — Algeria’s Roman Coast

ruins in tipasa
The ruins of Tipasa are right by the sea

Tipasa

Only around an hour from Algiers lies Tipasa, one of Algeria’s most important archaeological sites and an easy day trip from the capital. Driving there, we passed a massive Roman aqueduct, which already felt promising.

What makes the site special is the setting: ruins scattered along green hillsides directly above the sea.

It is supposedly the most visited archaeological site in Algeria, though that probably says more about Algeria’s tourism numbers than anything else. And its proximity to the capital.

There are Roman baths, villas, temples, an amphitheatre, churches, mosaics, and a small nymphaeum. The theatre once accommodated around 10,000 spectators and is one of the earliest outside of Rome.Not much is left since the stones were reused for other purposes. 

Tipasa began as a Punic trading post before becoming an important Roman city connected to the conquest of the kingdoms of Mauritania. Today, the UNESCO site includes Phoenician, Roman, early Christian, and Byzantine ruins overlooking the Mediterranean.

A fun  side-story is a memory stone for philosopher Camus (the one with the quote at the beginning).

Cherchell

cherchell harbour

Tour companies will often include Cherchell to your Tipasa trip. It’s not the main attraction, but worth a stop. Cherchell was once Caesarea, capital of the ancient Kingdom of Mauretania. Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Ottomans, and French all passed through here. The names most closely associated with Cherchell are Juba II and Cleopatra Selene, the daughter of Cleopatra and Mark Antony. Their story alone is enough to make history lovers stop here.

Not much survives because stones from ancient buildings were reused over centuries, but the museum in Cherchell is worth visiting for its sculptures and mosaics.

Cherchell is also famous for its fish dishes. You’ll find plenty of fish restaurants near the water and the exit of the ruins. Although not in Ramadan. Luckily this was the day before it started, so we did get some grilled shrimps.

One of the beautiful mosaics in Cherchell

Make sure to go into town as well. We also stopped at our guide’s favourite snack spot. We paid 2.5 euros per pizza. The town itself feels more like a sleepy summer town than a tourist destination. A few hotels are opening, though, showing tourism is slowly growing. Our lovely guide was Algerian Luna. We visited the forum, a temple that was turned into a mosque and a shopping street filled with dates. we had to buy some for her mom for Ramadan. 

The Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania

On the way back to Algiers, you must absolutely stop by the royal mausoleum.
royal mausoleum in algeria
Between Tipasa and Algiers stands one of Algeria’s strangest monuments: the Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, also known as the Tomb of the Christian Woman. This striking circular monument is traditionally associated with Juba II and Cleopatra Selene – the final king and queen of the empire of Mauretania. Cleopatra Selene was the daughter of Marc Anthony and Cleopatra.  It has four false doors and sits alone overlooking the landscape. it looks similar to the mausoleum built in Rome by emperor Augustus. Nobody fully agrees who exactly was buried there, which honestly just makes it more interesting.

DAY 4-5 Ghardaïa & the M’Zab Valley — Desert Fortresses in the Sahara

desert in algeria
The valley from above

The M’Zab Valley was the highlight of the trip for me. The UNESCO-listed valley around one hours flight from Algier feels unlike anywhere else I have visited. Founded in the 10th century by Ibadi Muslims, the valley contains five fortified oasis towns built to survive both desert conditions and outside threats. 

One town is called Beni Isguen, another Ghardaïa, and another Bounoura.  In Beni Isguen, you can visit a Mozabite house. They rise from the Sahara like something from a film set.

The architecture of the oasis towns Everything here is functional and defensive. The mosques look like fortresses. Houses are simple and functional, designed around community life rather than individual wealth. The architecture fascinated me endlessly: Palm-roofed houses, watchtowers, bridges connecting homes. Tiny doors designed to preserve building materials. Mosques occupy the highest points and resemble fortresses. 

The narrow winding streets serve multiple purposes:

  • Defence against invaders
  • Shade from the desert sun
  • Natural ventilation through wind tunnels

The urban planning is astonishingly sophisticated. It is very close to one of the hottest places in the world, so they need all the shade they can get.  I got the feeling that if you had water and dates, you’d be fine surviving a siege. Urban planners apparently study these towns today because the architecture is so intelligently adapted to climate and community living. More than a thousand years later, it still works.

mzab valley in algeria

Local customs The M’Zab Valley follows traditions that are noticeably more conservative than elsewhere in Algeria. Even in their own words.

Photography rules concerning women are strict and should absolutely be respected.

In one town, women traditionally only reveal one eye outdoors. That is if they are married – otherwise two  uncovered eyes mean you’re are on the market. I’ve never seen anything like it. The men all wear a white round hat and a skirt like pant. As a tourist, I would also be respectful. I wear long sleeves and pants/skirts and that goes for men as well. I usually wear a hat to cover my hair, but you don’t need to wear a scarf unless you’re in a mosque. 

hotel in algeria

Practical notes You are not allow to wander by yourself. You need local guides here, and I mean very local. Three of the cities are very similar, and the guides often tell many of the same stories. That’s the downside of having a new guide in each town.

Foreigners are monitored closely. At the airport, our passports were taken until our guide arrived. At first it felt slightly intimidating. Then you realise there are maybe five foreign tourists in the entire region.

The markets sell dates, nuts, blankets, and spices, though during Ramadan almost everything closed early.I would have bought a carpet if I had been able to carry it in my tiny backpack.

I flew back to Algier and had a driver waiting to drive me to next cultural highlight.

DAY 6 Djémila - Algeria’s Most Beautiful Roman Ruins?

ruins in algeria
No one is here? Djemila all to myself.

 If Tipasa impresses, Djemila amazes.

Located nearly 900 metres above sea level, Djemila is one of the most beautiful Roman sites I have ever visited. Unlike many Roman cities built on flat land, Djemila was adapted to a mountainous setting.

The result is spectacular.

The UNESCO-listed Roman city sits high in the mountains surrounded by fertile valleys and the Atlas Mountains. Unlike many Roman cities built on flat land, Djemila adapts dramatically to its hillside setting.

Originally a Numidian settlement called Cuicul, the Romans later transformed it into a colonial town. Temples, basilicas, forums, triumphal arches, and residential areas climb the hillside, creating a uniquely dramatic landscape.

It still feels strangely untouched.

ancient ruins

The museum deserves special mention. Some of the mosaics are genuinely among the finest I have ever seen. Many of animals like lions and leopards, but also one of wine making. We noticed that the museum closed early during Ramadan. From here it’s less than 2 hours to next stop.

DAY 6-7 Constantine - Algeria's city of bridges

The view from my room acroos one of the bridges

Known as the City of Bridges, Constantine occupies one of the most dramatic settings in North Africa. Named after emperor Constantine, the city is known for it s many bridges and stunning location on both sides of a gorge. It almost feels unreal at times.

The city’s history stretches back to ancient Numidia when it was known as Cirta. Constantine has been ruled by Numidians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Ottomans, and the French. The city’s architecture reflects this layered history, though much of what remains today is Islamic and colonial.

Today, visitors can explore:

  • Ahmed Bey Palace
  • The old town
  • Historic bridges including a Roman one
  • Constantine War Memorial
  • The Great Mosque
  • Colonial-era architecture

The Palace of Ahmed Bey was one of my favourite sights in Algeria. It looks slightly like a smaller North African version of the Alhambra with painted ceilings, courtyards, fountains, and murals of Cairo, Istanbul, and Crete. We were only five visitors there.

The Great mosque is special because of its size and was built in 1994 in a Neo-Moorish style and is made from Algerian marble. In this mosque, I had to wear a special dress. It definitely wasn’t the first one wearing it. Yikes. Constantine also has an old bridges, caves, markets, and a fascinating atmosphere balancing conservative traditions with youthful energy. The national museum is quite boring, but it does have objects from Beni Hammad, M’Zab, and the Roman ruins of Timgad.

Our guide showed us her sparkling engagement dresses between sightseeing stops. Honestly one of my favourite memories from the city.

Here is a very special dessert you have to try. Jawzia – kind of like nougat. So good. It was one of the things I brought home as a souvenir. Also buy spices, candy, leather goods, and more—if the shops are open. This city deserves its own article as well.

The cafe behind should have an excellent view, but like every other cafe and restaurant during Ramadan: closed
more time?

More time in Algeria?

If you are lucky enough to have more time to visit than I had, I would recommend two extra sights – both UNESCO.

Djanet & Tassili n’Ajjer

Deep in the Sahara lies one of Algeria’s most famous landscapes with prehistoric rock art over 12,000 years old. At the time of writing, specific visa rules applies for this area as well as a guide is mandatory. I met an American couple taking the precise same tour as me, but from Constantine they flew to Djanet and then back to Algier.

Timgad

Founded around 100 AD, Timgad is one of the best-preserved Roman grid cities anywhere in the world. A perfectly planned Roman city If you love Roman archaeology (and who doesn’t), this should absolutely be added. It’s about 2-3 hours south from Constantine.

Good to know before visiting Algeria

Travelling during Ramadan

At home, people asked me why I was visiting Algeria. In Algeria people asked why I visited during Ramadan. We visited during Ramadan. Ramadan is taking very seriously in Algeria. While it offered fascinating cultural experiences, I would not necessarily recommend it for first-time visitors.

Ramadan made this trip both harder and more memorable.

I knew lunch would be difficult, so we packed snacks from home. What I did not expect was how difficult dinner would become as well. During the day, finding food can be difficult. Even after sunset, many restaurants remain closed because families gather at home for iftar. At sunset, everyone simply disappeared home to eat. Restaurants closed. Cafés closed. Shops closed. Entire cities became silent.

If you have a kitchen you can buy supplies...

One evening in Ghardaïa we genuinely could not find food anywhere. After hours of trying, nearly in tears from hunger and exhaustion, a hotel worker finally made us a delicious omelette with local cheese for free because he felt sorry for us. That omelette tasted Michelin-starred at the time.

The upside?

  • Tourist sites were almost empty
  • Hotels had plenty of availability
  • Domestic flights were far from full and could be changed with short notice (which we did)
  • Traffic was lighter

One of my favourite memories was joining an iftar meal in Algiers on our final evening. Everyone knows exactly when sunset happens—in this case, 18:19. First you get a date and buttermilk to break the fast and prepare your stomach for food. Then comes soup, followed by the main meal. It felt like the perfect ending to the trip.

Still, unless you are very flexible and patient, I would probably not recommend Algeria during Ramadan.

ramadan meal in algeria
For breaking fast: dates and soup

Practical information on Algeria

Visa

Algeria has a renowned difficult visa. I heard of several travellers being refused entry One of our guides joked that the difficult visa process was intentional so “only dedicated tourists visit.” I suppose that includes me.

The Algerian visa process is definitely one of the more difficult ones I’ve tried. Or at least the most complicated and expensive. But when I got all the right papers mine was approved within a week without problems.

At the time of writing, rumour has it Algeria is slowly easing restrictions.

goat on road

Group tour or solo?

We booked our own flights and hotels in Algier. You can easily go yourself, but due to lack of time and the obligatory guide – and the fact that I can’t drive – we used a local operator – Fancy Yellow. They handled domestic flights, accommodation, transport, and permits, which turned out to be an good decision.We did have trouble finding a company working during Ramadan, so be prepared.

The trip was to and from Algier on a 4 day tour. It included Tipasa, M’Zab Valley, Djemila, Constantine and drop off in Algier. You can also easily do Tipasa by yourself, but we needed to go straight to the airport, so.

girl at hotel in algier
The weather was amazing in February

When to visit

Avoid Ramadan. I didn’t. Avoid summer. I did.
food stall

Money

Bring euros in cash. You cannot exchange Algerian dinars outside Algeria, and official exchange rates are terrible. Everyone recommended using the unofficial exchange market around Tantonville Café in Algiers. Ask a few for the rates before you decide.

And honestly? They were right.

Also: do not exchange too much money. Algeria is very cheap.

I am still stuck with a 100 euros worth of dinars, because everything is so cheap – and because we couldn’t buy any food.  I still have leftover dinars because during Ramadan there was barely anything open to spend money on.

algerian dates

Transportation to and in Algeria

For some it’s often the logistics of a trip that deters them from venturing out. So I will try to help:
Getting to and from Algier

There are no direct flights to Algier from Denmark and probably most European cities. Instead you go to Amsterdam or Paris and then a short 2,5 hours flight later, you land in Algier.

view from plane
Getting around Algier

Getting around in Algier was the most difficult. Distances are huge, and many routes are difficult by public transport. Trains exist but are reportedly very slow.

Domestic flights are essential for covering long distances. Plan your itinerary around flight schedules rather than road distances.

I tried to get someone to drive us the 10 hours from Ghardaia to Constatine to save time and a flight back and from Algier, but nobody would. I did manage to insist on driving from Algier to Constantine which is around 6 hours – but Djemila is on the way, so that’s perfect. I can’t drive, but I know another Danish couple who took the northeastern part in their own car. 

road in algier

Safety

Algeria felt exceptionally safe.

The authorities maintain a visible presence. I also noticed that the police regularly checked on our whereabouts, making it difficult to change plans. We did manage it through our agency, though. Although the system can feel unusual, I never encountered any security concerns. It can feel excessive, but we never felt threatened.

The atmosphere was incredibly calm. No harassment, no aggressive selling, no endless bargaining like parts of Morocco or Egypt. Algeria honestly became my favourite North African country during this trip simply because people left us alone unless we needed help.

Frankly, I felt safer than in several far more touristic countries. This might be different for Frenchmen. There is a lot of animosity toward France. I have an Algerian friend who told me he would never go to France unless he absolutely had to. Even young people were very aware of the suffering caused by French colonisation.

The view from my room at El Aurassi

Hotel

In Algier, I stayed at two different hotels. I often like to switch neighbourhoods if I come back. When I arrived, I wanted to make sure it was a nice hotel that could pick me up at the airport and help if needed. I therefore booked El Aurassi (affiliated link – you pay the same, but I get a small commission to travel for). An ugly hotel towering over the the old city, but with amazing views. The hotel is a bit worn down, but it had the biggest breakfast during my stay. from here you can walk to the kasbah in 10 minutes.

In M’Zab Valley, most people stay at the Hotel Belvedere (affiliated link – you pay the same, but I get a small commission to travel for) It has beautiful views. We preferred staying in a different type of accommodation – a residence built like the local houses. We were the only guests there. It was beautiful, set inside a palm grove with a pool. If it hadn’t been for the food situation, it would have been a really nice place. but looking back we should probably have stayed there. It turned out to be the only place with actual food.

I love a royal tomb

Final verdict on Algeria - is it worth visiting?

Algeria was my fifth African country and my third in North Africa.

Algeria is a growing destination, but for many Europeans it isn’t on the radar at all. It does not have the sheer concentration of world-famous sights that Egypt has. But it is the most enjoyable country I’ve travelled in across the region. The combination of Roman ruins, desert architecture, Mediterranean cities, layered history, and genuine hospitality makes it incredibly rewarding for cultural travellers. I would definitely go back.

And for now, you still mostly have the ruins to yourself. That probably won’t last forever.

The country with most cultural treasure is without contest Egypt. I rushed back there to see the newly opened museum: Why the Grand Egyptian Museum is a Must-Visit in Cairo. 

Or another country with roman ruins? Be Surprised by Plovdiv, Bulgaria: Culture Capital

Please let me know if you found this useful or if you’re missing some more information. Will you add Algeria to your travel list?


Discover more from The Travelling Dane

Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Scroll to Top

Discover more from The Travelling Dane

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading