North Macedonia is one of the least visited countries in Europe. It is also one of the cheapest — with extremely friendly people.
But what does North Macedonia actually offer a cultural traveller, and is it worth visiting? The short answer is yes. Everywhere becomes interesting if you travel deeper and explore the history.
But also… no. Much of North Macedonia’s appeal is natural rather than cultural, so for me this is probably not a country I will return to again and again. Still, for a first visit, there is more than enough to justify the trip.
For the longer answer — and to judge for yourself — read on. I’ll include more practical information and background later in the article.
What's in this article
Why travel to North Macedonia
North Macedonia has been on my radar for a while. Mostly because I had never visited – and I am counting countries -, but also because travellers kept mentioning Lake Ohrid. As someone more interested in culture, history, architecture, dark tourism and slightly odd places than beaches and resorts, I was curious whether the country had enough to offer beyond its famous lake.
The history of North Macedonia
Many people know there has been tensions between Greece and North Macedonia over the name “Macedonia”. This is because a large region in northern Greece is also called Macedonia.
Why does this matter? Because both countries claim ties to the ancient kingdom of Macedon — the homeland of Alexander the Great. For decades, Greece objected to the name “Macedonia,” arguing that it implied claims to Greek history and territory. History matters here. A lot. The dispute was finally resolved in 2019, when the country officially became North Macedonia.
North Macedonia’s history is shaped by different rulers and ancient kingdoms. The region was once part of the ancient kingdom of Macedon. Later came the Romans, Byzantines, Slavic settlers, Bulgarians, Serbians, and eventually the Ottoman Empire, which ruled the area for more than 500 years. After the Balkan Wars in early 1900s, the region became part of Serbia and later Yugoslavia. Following the peaceful end of Yugoslavia in 1991, the country declared independence.
Today, the country still reflects all these layers of history — Ottoman bazaars, socialist apartment blocks, giant nationalist statues, Orthodox churches, and other Balkan influences all mixed together.
The beautiful Ohrid Lake
The Lake
Lake Ohrid is without a doubt the highlight of North Macedonia. The lake is one of Europe’s oldest — around 3 million years old — and almost 300 meters deep. Shared between North Macedonia and Albania, it’s surrounded by mountains and small towns.
Surprisingly, I find the lake rivals Lake Bled as one of the Balkans’ most beautiful lakes. Lake Ohrid is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site thanks to both its biodiversity and cultural importance. Despite being the country’s main tourist destination, it still feels like a different world compared to famous lakes in Italy, France and even more relaxed than Slovenia.
Hiking
My main reason for visiting North Macedonia was to explore a new country. My mother and sister however came to hike the lake. What I failed to properly research beforehand was whether you can actually walk along the lake. And I am usually a very organized and well-prepared traveller, but this did not occur to me as a potential problem.
Surprise: you mostly can’t.
The standard itinerary – it turns out – is to take boat trips or water taxis between sights such as Sveti Naum. But with 2 out of 3 travellers on my trip getting seasick, that was not happening.
Instead, we walked from Ohrid to Sveti Stefan — roughly 4 km. Parts of the route are pleasant boardwalks lined with lounge bars, while other sections follow roads and beaches. Along the way you pass Tito’s old summer complex. (I have apparently now developed a strange accidental Tito tourism theme after visiting his tomb in Belgrade and staying near his former residence at Lake Bled.)
Chruches of Ohrid
My highlight of Ohrid – and in North Macedonia – is simply walking between its many historic churches. The most famous is the cliff-top Church of St. John at Kaneo. This place is what you see on Instagram, because it encapsulates all Ohrid has to offer in one picture. Perfectly placed above Lake Ohrid and dating from the 13th century.
But remember to visit the oldest church as well. The Church of Saint Sophia, one of North Macedonia’s most important medieval monuments, is known for its remarkable Byzantine frescoes. Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon is a Byzantine church built on top of a Roman basilica and a mosque during Ottoman rule.
Further south, the Monastery of Saint Naum, founded in 905 on the shores of the lake, but you have to sail and sadly, that meant missing Sveti Naum entirely. Together, these churches helped earn the Ohrid region its UNESCO World Heritage status.
Ancient theatre
The Ancient Macedonian Theatre of Lychnidos was built around 200 BC and is the only surviving Hellenistic theatre in North Macedonia.
During Roman rule, the theatre was used for gladiator contests and executions of Christians, making it unpopular with the locals. After the fall of the Roman Empire, it was deliberately buried and forgotten, which luckily helped preserve much of it.
The theatre was accidentally rediscovered in the 1980s. Today, it has been restored and you can go to concerts here including at the annual Ohrid Summer Festival.
Samuel's fortress
Like any respectable Balkan city, Ohrid also has a fortress – the fortress of Tsar Samuel.
It’s one of the largest and most important medieval fortifications in North Macedonia. Although the site has roots stretching back to antiquity, most of the walls visible today date from the reign of Tsar Samuel (976–1014), when Ohrid was the capital of his empire.
The defensive walls once were nearly 3 km. Over the centuries it was rebuilt by Byzantines, Slavs, and Ottomans, reflecting the city’s long and turbulent history.
The unusual capital Skopje
The capital of North Macedonia is Skopje.
Skopje is not really famous for anything — which is honestly part of what makes it interesting. The city feels weird. Kitschy. Slightly fake. It is definitely not the highlight of the country, but don’t skip it. If you are interested in architecture, national identity building, post-socialist cities, or just urban oddities, Skopje becomes fascinating very quickly. And it’s easily walked.
Skopje has a surprisingly long history. It began as the ancient Illyrian city of Scupi and later became the capital of Dardania in the 4th century. After being destroyed by an earthquake in 518, the city grew again during the Byzantine and Ottoman periods and became an important trade center. More recently, the city became part of Serbia in 1913 and Yugoslavia in 1918. After World War II, it became the capital of the Socialist Republic of Macedonia. Then disaster struck again. In 1963, a devastating earthquake destroyed around 80% of the city and killed more than 1,000 people. International aid poured in from 78 countries, giving Skopje the nickname “The City of International Solidarity.”
Main sights in Skopje
Unfortunately, because of the devastating 1963 earthquake, not much of Skopje’s older history remains today. So what is there to do in Skopje?
Strangely, the city’s main attractions are now gigantic statues of men on horses scattered across the center. Modern Skopje mixes its historic Ottoman bazaar and old stone bridges with oversized monuments, neo-classical facades, and the enormous 22-meter-high statue of Alexander the Great looming over Macedonia Square.
Skopje 2014
Since 2010, Skopje has transformed its center through the controversial “Skopje 2014” project — a nationalist attempt to reshape the capital with neo-classical buildings, giant statues, fountains, museums, and bridges.
A lot of men on horses. And lions. And columns. And more men on horses.
If you Google Skopje, you will probably see Macedonia Square with its gigantic Alexander the Great statue standing on an oversized fountain in full victory-pose mode. Across the river stands his father Philip II, also on a giant pedestal, watching over the city. Everything feels oversized and oddly theatrical. Some people hate it. Personally, I found it interesting in how cities use art and architecture to create an identity.
Carsija -old part
In the old Ottoman part of town, you find the most ambience. Small squares, narrow streets, and old shops that look like time has passed them by. People sipping Turkish tea and buying baklava. You enter across the 500-year-old Stone Bridge. The old town is small, so avoid visiting in high season and on Sunday afternoons.
The old hamam from 1473 at the beginning of the area is worth a stop. When it was built, it was the largest hamam outside Istanbul. Today, it is part of the National Gallery. Don’t visit for the art — visit for the building itself. Honestly, it would probably still be a popular hamam today.
Arcehological Museum
Skopje doesn’t have that many attractions, but I had to visit the Archaeological Museum since it allegedly had some tombs — and you know I am a dark tourist.
The museum was actually better than expected. Top artefacts include an ancient tomb, a full temple with a mosaic floor, as well as a gold death mask. The main large tomb, however, was a replica of one I had already seen in Istanbul, and there was also a lot of pottery. We were the only visitors.
Kalo Fortress
Kale Fortress lies on a small hill above the city. The fort dates back to the 6th century and has both Byzantine and Ottoman history. I usually love a fortress, but this one was very run-down, and the view was a rare disappointment since Skopje is not exactly a beautiful city. But then you turn around and see the mountains.
On the way to the fort is Sveti Spas — a 14th-century church with supposedly beautiful art inside. Unfortunately, it was closed all weekend. From the outside, you can still see the wooden bell tower.
Mother Theresa Memorial House
One of Skopje’s more unusual attractions is the Mother Teresa Memorial House. Although she is most closely associated with India, Mother Teresa was actually born in Skopje in 1910. The small museum tells the story of her life and humanitarian work. I didn’t go in, but pass the statue of her.
Brutalism
After the devastating earthquake, the city was rebuilt according to a major modernist plan. The post office, train station, churches, and university buildings all became part of Skopje’s new architectural identity. Brutalist architecture is not for everyone, but I like it. Though admittedly, I am probably not the most objective person to ask about concrete buildings.
The hiker-friendly Matka Canyon
30 minutes drive from Skopje lies Matka Canyon. A large dam has created a large lake in the canyon. The lovely national park is a favoured day trip from the capital and in weekend the locals gather. So try to avoid high season and weekends.
A lot of groups of elderly women and sandals arrived at the same time as us and we looked with amazement. Apparently, large groups take a boat trip and don’t hike. It takes 25 minutes and you visit a cave. But if you can – hike instead. We did not have enough time, so didn’t walk further than 1 hour, but it’s lovely. Butterflies are in the air and only a few others passed us on the narrow path. I wished we had more time.
Entrance to the canyon is free. Parking is a bit difficult – the nearest parking only holds around 6 cars. Instead stop by the tour busses if possible. It’s only a short walk from there. By the area the boats leave from is also a small cafe and a toilet.
Charming Tetovo
The small town of Tetovo is the perfect stop a short drive from Skopje and Matka Canyon. Unlike Skopje, this feels like a normal town. The main reason to stop here is the so-called “Colourful Mosque”. It was originally built in the 1500s, though later rebuilt. I’ve seen many mosques on my travels, but the decorations on this one are unusually detailed and colourful.
We only stopped in Tetovo for the mosque, but ended up staying longer for lunch and a walk through town. In the background, the mountains create a lovely setting. We had good weather, and people sat drinking coffee by the small stream running through the center.
Something funny happened in Tetovo.
First, we were getting juice and cake at Ambrosia when the young guy at the counter asked if we were from Denmark. “I have an uncle in Denmark,” he said. He had visited my hometown of Copenhagen many times.
But that wasn’t all. After visiting the mosque, we were looking for a place to eat when suddenly a young woman with a baby stroller stopped us and said — in Danish! — “Do you need a place to eat?” It turned out she lived in Denmark but had family in the city.
It’s a small world after all.
Off the beaten track Bitola
Bitola is even smaller than Tetovo. It’s a perfect stop if your heading for the border or the national park. We were heading for the border to Greece.
Bitola feels very different from Skopje.
Where the capital is loud, chaotic, and full of oversized statues, Bitola is slower and even more relaxed (which does not seem possible). The city was once an important Ottoman center and later became known for its consulates, earning it the nickname “City of Consuls.” Today, it feels more like a provincial Balkan town than a major tourist destination — which I appreciate.
The main pedestrian street is lined with cafés where locals sit drinking coffee, smoke and watch life pass by. Around town you’ll find old mosques, faded facades, and the slightly melancholic atmosphere that many Balkan towns seem to share.
The clock tower is the city’s main landmark, though admittedly not the most exciting one. (Wikipedia helpfully informs us that its purpose is telling time.)
Bitola is probably not worth a huge detour on its own, but as a stop between Ohrid, Greece, or nearby national parks, it works very well. Especially if you enjoy places that feel lived-in.
More time in North Macedonia?
If you are lucky enough to have more time than I had, I would go to Mavrovo National Park – part of the transnational UNESCO Site of the ancient beech forests. Even more time? Stay longer in Ohrid and visit the nearby National Park Galicica as well as Pelister National park and Prespa lake. But us cultural travellers will do fine without it.
Good to know before visiting North Macedonia
Season & time
- I visited North Macedonia in early May. Technically, this is one of the rainiest months of the year, but I was lucky and barely saw any rain. Mornings and evenings are still cold though, and it can get quite windy.
- One major advantage of visiting in May was the lack of tourists. Ohrid was pleasantly quiet, and I would honestly avoid visiting in peak summer season if possible. Despite North Macedonia being one of Europe’s least visited countries, Ohrid is small enough to feel crowded surprisingly quickly.
- Just note that if you arrive before the season properly starts around May 1st, some restaurants, cafés, and hotels may still be closed.
- In total, we spent five days in North Macedonia, which felt like a good amount of time for the places we visited.
Budget
I am fortunate enough not to have to count every penny when I travel. I would describe myself as a mid-range traveller — sometimes I spend more, sometimes less, but generally I like being comfortable. Still, I wanted to include a budget section because North Macedonia is a very cheap country by European standards.
- To give you an idea: * rakija cost around €1.60 * beer around €2 * Turkish tea around €1 * and we paid roughly €70 per night for a 4-star hotel room for three people. A large Turkish-style meal for three people cost us around €24. Renting a car was more expensive — around €400 — but that was mainly because we crossed an international land border into Greece.
- You could definitely travel around North Macedonia more cheaply than I did. (For example by not buying a large Ohrid pearl necklace.) North Macedonia is not part of the EU and does not use the euro, though many places still accept euros alongside the local currency, the Macedonian denar.
Hotel
We stayed in two different places during our trip.
- In Skopje, we stayed in a family room at Queens Hotel (affiliate link — you pay the same, but I get a small commission that helps fund my travels). We spent around €120 per night for a family room with a separate bedroom. The hotel is a bit outside the center, but you can still walk to the old town in around 15 minutes. It also has parking and is located inside a small shopping mall with a supermarket, which was surprisingly practical. I also liked that it was in a local neighbourhood and close to good restaurants.
- In Ohrid, we stayed in a two-bedroom apartment at Villa Pupin Gorna Porta (affiliated link). “Gorna Porta” means “Upper Gate”. It was a perfectly good place to stay, especially because it had parking, though you can definitely find B&Bs with better lake views if you book earlier than I did. We originally wanted stay at Villa Varosh (affiliated link) but it was sold out.
Transport
By air
- You can fly into Skopje, which is where most people arrive. Ohrid also has a tiny airport, though most international travellers will probably still go via the capital.
- I continued on to Greece and flew home from Thessaloniki, which is only a few hours’ drive from both Skopje and Ohrid.
- The landing into Skopje from Belgrade on a small propeller plane was one of the worst flights I’ve had in a while. The mountains made the plane sway for what felt like half an hour, and even I started questioning my life choices.
By car
- You really should have a car in North Macedonia. One of the reasons I had not visited earlier is simply because I can’t drive, so I needed to find a travel partner with a driver’s license.
- Petrol is extremely cheap, and the roads are generally in good condition. However, driving is slow because of very low speed limits — even on highways. We rarely drove faster than 60 km/h for long stretches. They are currently building a new highway between Skopje and Ohrid, which will probably improve things in the future.
- You can also easily enter or leave the country by car. We crossed into Greece through the Niki border crossing. Since you are entering the EU, make sure you have all the correct paperwork and a Green Card for the car. Even though we rented through SIXT, we still had issues at the border and were held for around 15 minutes — something those of us with strong passports are admittedly not very used to.
- The mountain roads are beautiful, especially with snow-capped peaks in the background, though they also made me carsick more than once.
By bus or train
- I did not use public transport myself, but trains are apparently not particularly efficient here compared to some neighbouring Balkan countries like Serbia.
- There is a bus between Skopje and Ohrid, and I believe there is also a slow train heading south. Still, without a car, you will miss quite a lot of the country.
Food
- Ćevapi or kebapi— small grilled minced meat sausages served with bread, onions. i love of them in Istanbul.
- Ajvar — a roasted pepper spread that appears with almost everything
- Shopska salad — tomatoes, cucumber, onion, and lots of white cheese. If you’ve been to Bulgaria you had it.
- Burek — flaky pastry filled with cheese or meat
- Tavče gravče — baked beans in a clay pot, considered a national dish. Sounds boring but is really nice as a side dish.
In Skopje, I can recommend stopping by the Bit Bazaar area for an iced coffee or fresh orange juice. Around the market you’ll find stalls selling nuts, fruit, vegetables, and fresh cheese. We also visited Kosmos, a very popular Turkish-style café and restaurant that has apparently been around since 1951. For something more filling, Destan is a classic choice for grilled meat, salad, bread, and beans at very reasonable prices.
Drinking
- I can definitely recommend trying the local rakija. Macedonian rakija is a potent fruit brandy—the national drink of the Balkans. But unlike other Balkan regions that favor plums, North Macedonia makes its signature rakija almost exclusively from grapes. I prefer not-plum. (I also had excellent rakija in Serbia). The strong drink is deeply tied to the country’s culture, signifying hospitality and friendship.
- The two local beers were also surprisingly good. Lemonades in North Macedonia tend to be extremely sour, while the fresh orange juice was excellent almost everywhere we went.
Shopping
I always buy souvenirs I can eat, drink or wear.
- In Ohrid, you find the Ohrid pearl. Authentic Ohrid pearls are not extracted from oysters; rather, they are crafted from mother-of-pearl layered with a secret emulsion made from the scales of an endemic fish. There are several stories of its origin. Buy at the old family company like Filevi – Denmark’s queen Margrethe II has one from here. And me. Prices are very reasonable.
- Honey, spices, and of course rakija is also great souvenirs.
Safety
I’ve only included this section because people always ask about safety when I travel.
Personally, I never felt unsafe in North Macedonia. We were 3 women travelling together and walked around alone at night in both Skopje and Ohrid without any problems.
As always, use normal common sense. Watch your belongings in busy areas, don’t flash valuables around, and avoid getting into drunken political discussions about Balkan history unless you have several hours to spare.
Overall, I found people in North Macedonia extremely friendly and welcoming and helped us with parking and everything. Which is a lot more than can be said of us Danes.
My honest opinion on North Macedonia for a cultural traveller
North Macedonia surprised me. Not because it is packed with world-famous sights or because every stop was unforgettable, but because the nature is so beautiful and sights are largely untouched by mass tourism. You still find old men drinking Turkish coffee in the bazaar, strange socialist buildings, half-empty museums, and conversations that somehow end with someone’s cousin living in Denmark.
For cultural travellers, North Macedonia is probably not the Balkans’ strongest destination. Albania, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Serbia and Bulgaria have more layers historically and architecturally. But that does not mean North Macedonia is uninteresting. Quite the opposite.
Skopje is one of the strangest capitals I have visited in Europe — part Ottoman town, part brutalist experiment, part nationalist theme park. And I do enjoy an old Ottoman city. Ohrid, meanwhile, deserves its reputation as one of the Balkans’ most beautiful lakes.
Would I return? Probably not immediately.
Am I happy I finally visited? Absolutely.
North Macedonia may not become your favourite Balkan country, but it will almost certainly be one of the more unusual – and so memorable – ones.
I really like Balkan and I’ve visited 8 Balkan countries. (Depending on how you count, I am missing Kosovo and Romania for bingo). Explore the underrated region in Southern Albania’s Cultural and Natural Treasures in 1 Week, Be Surprised by Plovdiv, Bulgaria or A Dark Tourist in Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina.
Please let me know if you found this useful or if you’re missing some more information. Do you prefer of-the-radar countries?
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