The Travelling Dane

A Different Stockholm: Behind the Scenes at the City’s Cultural Icons

“Venice of the North”. The nickname of the Swedish capital of Stockholm makes perfect sense, when you walk along the canals and traverse the many bridges. But why compare Stockholm to Venice, when it’s got plenty to say for itself.

As a Scandinavian neighbour, I’ve been to Stockholm five times now. But one of those trips showed me a very different side of the Swedish capital. 

I got backstage access to some of Stockholm’s most famous cultural sights – including places most visitors never get to see. I’ve been inside the Royal Palace, attended a reception at Tessin Palace, had dinner in Stockholm City Hall’s famous Blue Hall, experienced Drottningholm Palace with a private performance in its historic theatre, and explored the UNESCO-listed Woodland Cemetery with a member of staff.

woman

And yes, I’ve also done the obvious Stockholm things. I’ve wandered the medieval streets of Gamla Stan, visited the Vasa Museum more than once and explored the Royal Armoury – one of my favourite museums anywhere.

So this isn’t just another list of things to do in Stockholm. It’s my guide to the cultural Stockholm I keep coming back to: the famous sights, the overlooked ones, the places with a darker history, and a few experiences I’ve been lucky enough to see from the other side of the velvet rope. 

If you love history, architecture, museums and UNESCO World Heritage Sites, this is the Stockholm I think you’ll want to explore.

Inside Stockholm: A Backstage Look at the Royal Palace, City Hall & UNESCO Sites

Backstage experiences

  • 🏛️ Tessin Palace
  • 🍽️ Stockholm City Hall / Blue Hall
  • 🎭 Drottningholm Palace 
  • 🌲 Skogskyrkogården 

CULTURAL SIGHTS IN STOCKHOLM

As the home of the Nobel Prize, Stockholm has a lot of cultural weight. The city has so many sight not to miss: Gamla Stan, Vasa Museum and the royal palace. But if you have more time or if you are a returning traveller, you can also find an overlooked gem not on many lists and two world-class highlights: Drottningholm Palace and Skogskyrkogarden – both on the World Heritage list.

If it’s museums you want, try A Cultural Traveller’s Guide to Stockholm’s Museums.

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan is the main attraction in Stockholm. The old town’s oldest parts are 800 years old – medieval that is. The cobblestones narrow streets, the colourful houses and the yesteryear vibe is wonderful.

But you will not be the only traveller in the old town. Last visit was the most crowded I’ve ever experienced.

Luckily, most tourists stay in the main street, so just a few steps aside and you are almost alone. The popular insta-shot is the narrow streets called “gränd”. 

I was once forced on a ghost walk in old town, but it’s not for me. I couldn’t tell when he was telling stories and when it was history and that annoys me. And I don’t like being scared, but it might be an option for you.

Riddarholmens church

Some might think the the Cathedral (Storkyrkan) is the main church sight, but not if you ask me. Then it’s an overlooked gem:  Ridderholmskyrkan with the easy to detect spire.

Riddarholmens church is no longer a functioning church, but it’s the old royal burial church. 15 kings and queens are laid to rest here including Karl 10 Gustav who attacked Denmark… And as dark tourist this is an overlooked gem I think.

One of the chapels is named Bernadotte’s, because unlike the Danish dynasty that goes back a 1000 years, the current Swedish royal family is only 200 years old and began with a marshall in the Napoleonic army.

The church is Stockholm’s only preserved medieval abbey, but unfortunately it’s only open in the summertime. Wrong priority – if you ask me.

If you’re into tombs, find inspiration in Dark Tourism: 15 Must-Visit Tombs and Mausoleums

Royal Palace

The second biggest site is the palace – home to Sweden’s royal family.

In the palace built by Nicodemus the Younger (we will get back to him) is huge and holds not only the royal family, but also several amazing museum. There’s a guided tour through the palace. Obviously, you gotta see the treasury with the old crowns.

But my favourite thing in the castle is the royal of armoury (Livrustkammeret) Even though you might not be a dark tourist like me, this is the best armoury museum in Europe (alongside the one in Paris.) I mean how about King Gustav III’s masquerade costume from the time he was shot. The bullet hole is still there! Or the magnificent stuffed horse Streiff. He belonged to King Gustav II Adolf but died at the Battle of Lützen in 1632 and was brought home from the battlefield.

Royal armoury

Two more museum are for the really committed. Tre Kroner with remains of the old castle Trekroner (three crowns).

Gustav III Museum of Antiquities is one of Europe’s oldest museums and has a beautiful collection of antique statues, but most people are exhausted at this point. Find more on the palace museums in A Cultural Traveller’s Guide to Stockholm’s Museums

Tessin Palace

The Tessin palace is maybe not the most notices since it just opposite the royal palace. But just like the royal palace, this Baroque pearl was built by architect Tessin the Younger – as is his own (small) palace.

Today, the governor of Stockholm lives here. I’ve been lucky enough to participate in a reception inside. If you get an opportunity to see the garden you should jump at the offer.

Museums in Stockholm

Best museum ever?

As you might know by now, I always head for a museum whenever I go anywhere. And Stockholm has a innumerable amount of them. So of course I have written A Cultural Traveller’s Guide to Stockholm’s Museums

But if you don’t have time to read it, I’ll give you a spoiler: The list includes one of my absolute favourite museums in the world: Vasa Museum. It hold the mightiest 300- year old war ship that sank when leaving the harbour. to stand in front of it is awe-inspiring.

ABBA Museum and Skansen are overrated in my opinion. I visited the Archaeological museum on a special evening opening, but it’s a bit scary so come during the day.

City Hall

The iconic City Hall in Stockholm

Speaking of the Venice of the North, City Hall is built partly in Venetian style. A great guilded hall can be visited.

On my last I also had a cool experience here. The mayor held a dinner party for our conference ain the Blue Hall. What I remember most was there there was no alcohol at all (which I liked) and the decorations were made by Prince Eugene himself.

On a sunny Sunday, you’ll find the locals strutting along the promenade running past city hall with their strollers.

The water

Venice of the North is like the name suggest – full of canals and waterfronts. Taking a tour boat, or sailing through the Swedish archipelago or just strolling along them is one of the best things to do on the Swedish capital.

Two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Stockholm

So while there’s plenty to explore inside Stockholm’s main attraction, I have to include two more. As a cultural traveller with a love for World Heritage Sites, these two attractions are perfect for a second-time- in-Stockholm-visitor.

DROTTNINGHOLM

The lovely garden of Drottningholm

The castle of Drottningholm is where the royal family lives while their offices are in the castle in center of town. It’s part of the Royal Palaces and Sweden’s best-preserved palace constructed in the 1600s.It’s also built by Tessin.

The huge Baroque park has a labyrinth, which is actually big enough to get lost in and fun for kids. Thirsty? Drop by the Chinese pavillion for a cup of tea.

What I remember best was the palace theatre. It’s the best-preserved  theatre in Europe from the 1700s. On top of that it’s the only one in the world(!) that still uses the original stage machinery. The theatre has guided tours and performances during the summer. My visit here was part of a conference and so I was lucky enough to see a small performance just for us.

SKOGSKYRKOGARDEN

A dark tourism site: a cemetery. But not just any graveyard. This is a modernist cemetery and an outstanding example of the merging of architecture and a designed cultural landscape. It might seem common now, but this place had a great influence on the design of cemeteries around the world. Who wouldn’t want to be buried in a forest.

Even though this was my 5th visit, I hadn’t really heard about this before. Skogskyrkogarden or Woodland cemetery. I got the complete tour with one of the staff, but I would actually have preferred just strolling the grounds.

Notice the name

From Stockholm harbour, you can also easily reach a third World Heritage Site: Birka. It was the largest and most important city in the Viking Age. It takes 2 hours by ferry. I get seasick so didn’t go – alas.

PRACTICALITIES

First time visitor in Stockholm?
  • You can easily walk the city, but expect some detours due to  the many canals and some up and down hill walking.
  • You can use credit cards, but cash is also used more often than in the rest of Scandinavia
  • There are many good hotels outside of old town and even a ship-hotel. I prefer to stay in Södermalm, but Norrmalm is also ok
  • I know many visit Scandinavia during the summer and I get it. But I prefer to visit Stockholm outside high season like late September or early October.
  • Stockholm can be reached by train and night train from Copenhagen and has an international airport.

WHERE TO EAT

Champagne and lobster is your go to food in Stockholm. And then cardamum buns for dessert.

On most of my travels here, I go completely without red meat since seafood and fish is just so delicious. Vegetarians will not have a problem either. 

I also had one of the best Michelin experiences in Esperanto Stockholm, but the restaurant is closed now.

Chokladkoppen

If old town is not too crowded a great place for a “fika” (break with coffee and cake) is Chokladkoppen or chocolate cup. You have to order cardamum buns.

B.A.R Blaiseholmen

For seafood and chanpagne, but informal. 

Saluhall

Saluhall is like a food market. Find your favourites and you don’t even have to agree with your travel partner on the kitchen.

Pastis

Location, location, location.

No matter where you want to dine, remember to book a table beforehand, since the Swedes love to dine out. Even on weekdays.

WHY I KEEP COMING BACK TO STOCKHOLM

Stockholm is an amazing city that I can always visit again. Much more a cosmopolite place than Helsinki and Oslo and much more sleek than Copenhagen. And did I mention it’s cheaper…

Five visits in, I still don’t feel I’ve finished with Stockholm.

I’ve seen the city as a tourist, as a cultural traveller and, occasionally, from behind doors that most visitors don’t get to walk through. I’ve stood beneath the chandeliers of the Royal Palace, had dinner in the Blue Hall, wandered through medieval Stockholm, explored UNESCO World Heritage Sites and been given a glimpse behind the scenes at some of the city’s great cultural institutions.

And there is still more to see.

woman

That’s probably what I like most about Stockholm. You can come for Gamla Stan and the Vasa, then return for the museums, the royal history, the UNESCO sites or the darker stories hiding behind the beautiful façades.

I’ve already been back five times. I’m not finished yet.

Interested in Sweden, head for the Secret Summer Island of Bergman: Fårö or find more inspiration for city breaks here.

Do you like Stockholm?

Exit mobile version