The secret summer island of sheep & Bergman: Fårö, Sweden!

Looking for a new summer destination?  If you want to go somewhere only a few travellers know about, try the remote and secret island of Fårö in Sweden. Until the 1990’s, the entire island was off limits to travellers.

But not any more! Relax, pet a sheep, go to the beach, add a rock to the stone walls indulge in the locally produced food – and see an existentialistic Swedish film. Fårö means Travellers Island, so what are you waiting for…

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Scandinavian people always go south for summer holidays. But a couple of years ago, we decided to go north. I didn’t really know that much about Fårö before hand, beside that this was the place were the great Swedish filmmaker Bergman lived and worked. Also that Visby on the nearby island of Gotland is an UNESCO site.  Reason enough for me! Luckily the weather gods was kind to us, and it turned out to be one of the best family trips ever.

Here’s what to see, where to eat and sleep and how to get there:

WHAT TO SEE & DO

Fårö is a very small island, so there’s only a few sights, but they are all worth it.

The main cultural sight is the Bergmancenter (has its own section further down). The main natural site is something called “Rauker”. These stone formations are unique to Fårö and Gotland and are best seen at Langhammer at the northern part of the island. The formations are caused by erosion during the ice age. The surrounding area is great for climbing and exploring, so grab your camera and head for the sunset.

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If you are interested in sheep, here’s a great study case. A lot of people thinks the island is called Fårö, because it means Sheep island, but it’s rather from an old Nordic word “far” meaning to fare (yes, Nordic has influenced English through the Vikings). This makes the island’s real name: travellers island! So know you gotta go!

gotland sheep.JPGIf not… add a stone to the stone walls or gates surrounding the fields.

fårø stonewall

There’s also a church, but the ones on Gotland are more interesting, and a lighthouse as well, but it’s not exactly UNESCO material.

You can also just hang out at the beach (make sure the weather is good). You won’t find too many tourists, so it’s not like a day at the beach on the French Riviera…

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My son’s buried in the sand, but you can see his head…

BERGMAN

The main reason we went to Fårö was Ingmar Bergman. If you haven’t seen a movie by the Swedish auteaur, you should immediately close my article and see one of his existentialistic masterpieces. Maybe “Through a Glass Darkly” filmed on the beach with the Rauks. My favourite film is “The Seventh Seal” from 1957, where the old Templar knight plays chess with death – in B&W of course…

Bergman center-horz

Bergman lived and worked on Fårö for 40 years. The Bergmancenter displays exhibitions about his work, a cinema and a library. There’s a shop with films and t-shirts. We bought both.

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You gotta love my son’s Bergman t-shirt!

It’s Bergman Week at the end of June with a lot of activities and always an international filmmaker as a guest. If you aim for this event, just make sure you have a place to stay well ahead. Bergman had several houses (something about wives and maids) and 4 of them are now used as artist residency. The one on the beach is off limits, but you can drive by others.

For some reason, this museum wasn’t a children favourite, but right next to it is Fårö Museum – a small local historical museum. Here you can learn more about sheep and stones.

fårø museums

There’s a cafe named after one of his film, which is nice and has a something to eat and drink and ice cream. Which leads me to the next theme:

WHERE TO EAT

One thing that was even better than I imagined was the food. Locally and organic grown produce everywhere.

Our favourite place, close to where we stayed, was the Fårögarden Restaurant. They also have a B&B. The make “Gotlandic Mediterranean food”. Breakfast in the morning sun on one side and dinner in the descending sun on the other side.

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Our favourite place

Even closer to our lodgings was the Vinor Krog serving sea food and good wine. Also near by is the Carlssons Café and Restaurang with decent pizza. Considering you don’t really have that many options, it could be way worse. Most kids prefer the pizza place, but you can luckily convince them of the other spot, since right next to is the miniature golf court. So you can sit on the porch drinking wine, while your better half and kids play. Works like a charm!

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I think we played 5 times in a couple of days. For some reason, that never gets old with him.

Further south is the quirky Kutens Bensin & Creperie Tati. We stopped for a drink but they weren’t open yet. But it looked great with a view of the water.

WHERE TO SLEEP

Hotels is not the main type of lodging – it’s camping. I’m not really a camper, and my son hates it, but we still spent 3 nights in Sudersand Camping. There’s a fantastic long beach – Sudersand Beach – just on the spot. The facilities are good and you can rent anything from a villa to bring your own tent. We ttok the cheapest option very close to the beach. That was a good call. . You will have to buy a camping card, but it’s not that expensive. Remember to decide if you want a camping spot with a plug.

Fårø camping mosaic

Nearer the more expensive cabins is a small playground (my son seen jumping on their playground above) and a swimming pool. But for the completely low key, our site was best.

HOW TO GET THERE

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To get there you take a small ferry from Gotland – it takes about 15 mins. To get to Gotland you can fly, but I recommend taking your car with you. I do not think there’s much car rental in Gotland. We drove from Denmark to Oskarshamn and took a large ferry – it took about 3 hours. You can also take the ferry from Nynæshamn near Stockholm. Otherwise if you arrive by plane, go to Stockholm, rent a car on mainland Sweden and take it on the ferry.

Do you know a secret island?

Want a more easy accessible island, but still stay off the grid? Then Go to the lesser-travelled East side of Crete & do as the locals!

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