If you ask me which European cities, I would like to re-visit, the answer is: Naples and Ljubljana!
Ljubljana is the unnoticed capital of booming destination Slovenia. The capital has the small, narrow medieval streets of Poland, the food of Italy and the castles of Germany. Is this the most overlooked European capital? Not for long!
A WEEKEND IN LJUBLJANA
WHAT TO DO IN LJUBLIANA
Just wandering the old cobbled streets, crossing the bridges across the river, enjoy ancient ruins or seeing the sun from the castle. Some great small town shopping here as well – I bought a lovely small ceramic plate from the creator herself. The old town in Ljubljana is concentrated on a small and pedestrian friendly area, but the city also has a lot more to offer.
How about getting your daily lactose from a milk vending machine? Or go to the attraction, where you’ll be the only one.
UNESCO architecture
Precnik built both public spaces, houses, market halls, a park, streets, promenades, bridges and public institutions.
The most important of his works part of the World Heritage Site is the Three Bridges, the Roman Wall Archaeological park, The Cobbler’s Bridge and Plečnik’s Market in Ljubljana. A bit overlooked, but impressive is the staircase of the university (which he also built but is not a favourite of me).
You might not think of Roman ruins when you think of Balkan, but there are many excellent sights (like in Plovdiv in Bulgaria). The Archaeological Park by the Roman Wall is a bit outside the main square and has NO visitors. Named Emona, the city was visited by the Visigoths, the Huns, the Langobards, the Avars and Slavs.
OLD TOWN
Preseren Square
Who long to see / That all men free / No more shall foes, but neighbours be.
The central square (Presernov Trg) is named after the Romantic poet France Preseren and you can’t miss the huge statue of him. It’s the most crowded spot int he city. Day trippers to the city will primarily come here and you can also catch a free city walk. My mom recommends it – I prefer to go alone and enjoyed my solotime..
The square has some beautilful art deco houses
The square is dominated by the pink church which is the 400 year old Franciscan Church of the Annunciation. For you fellow dark tourists out there, don’t miss the glass coffin with the remains of Saint Deodatus.
THE CATHEDRAL
Officially known as St. Nicholas and the most important church in Ljbljana. The site has ben a place of worhsip for 800 years.
Ljubljana Castle
Towering above the city is the Castle or Ljubljanski Grad. It’s the landmark of the city.
To visit, you can take the funicular train return included in the entrance ticket. Or as I recommend, just walk up and down and also skip the entrance since you can see most of the castle for free. Well, at least we supported the tourism industry.
A castle has been standing here for 900 years, but the present one has undergone many changes throughout the centuries.
Inside the castle is a courtyard that is clearly meant for dining tourists. The castle has an exhibition on Slovenian history, a puppet museum (creepy), and a few historical rooms like the Chapel of St George and a Prison. Everything is very harshly reconstructed.
But the trip here is worth it for one thing: the view. The fortress is the perfect place to watch the sunset with a drink in hand.
The River and the rest of Old town
The river Sava meet Ljubljanica and runs through the old town and creates a lovely atmosphere. The old streets has tourists shops and restaurants, but it’s still nice. Legend says Jason and the Argonauts sailed here- that’s good enough for me. A third bridge across the river is the Dragon bridge or Smajski Most.
BEYOND OLD TOWN
Congress square
The main square in the new part of town. The building that is now the University used to be the State Mansion of Carniola (once a duchy) from 1902 to 1918.
In 1918, independence from Austrian-Hungarian rule and the establishment of a new state was proclaimed on the square. After WWII, the Yugoslav Communist leader Josip Broz Tito (I stayed at his summerhouse – now hotel – at Lake Bled) held a speech on the balcony.
The first skyscraper
Probably not on many’s check list, but I got my best shots of the city from above from here. Neboticnik Skyscraper was built in 1933 and was then the tallest building in Central Europe.
It’s a but tricky to find the entrance, but don’t give up. The view from here is spectacular – even better than from the castle since you can capture the castle and a panorama of the city from here.
Tivoli Park
Nothing like it’s namesake in my hometown of Copenhagen or the one in Italy, but still nice.
If the weather is as good as when I visited the park is a good picnic spot. Theis green oasis is the largestand popular on weekends. Not surprsingly, Plecnik also had a hand in this one and designed the long promenade through the park.
The park has 2 mansions, a zoo and some museums. In the 17th century mansion, you can see the Center of Graphics. It was built originally by Jesuit monks (monks like bishops have palaces remember) as a vacation retreat. Not bad.
National Gallery, museum & Opera
I always go to museums, to try and learn more about the country I’m visiting. But unfortunately, it was Monday and both museums closed.
The National Gallery was founded in 1918 (same time as the independence, since museums are crucial to establishing and keeping an identity) and gives an introduction to Slovenia from the Middle Ages to the 20th century.
The National Museum from 1821 has the oldest music instrument in the world: a Neanderthaler flute! You can also find the Emona citizen – a gilded statue from the Roman age.
The opera from 1890 and surrounding buildings are from the outside still worth a swing by.
Krakovo Neighbourhood
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN LJUBLJANA
If you’re into a local delicacy head for the covered marker in the arcades. There you find a small shop selling horse meat. A few restaurants inside old town also serve it. I always try to taste new things, but I’ve already tasted horse meat and – it’s not that great tasting.
Lesar Hotel Angel
LOCATION
Perfectly located in old town, but on a quiet sidestreet.
STYLE
Old school antique shop with antlers, rural paintings and angel statues.
Price
You can probably find a cheaper hotel, but this is a special place and we got a free upgrade
Slovenia is a bit more expensive than I expected. Not only because of the costly hotel and the inflation, but it’s right next to Austria and close to Switzerland. Expect high priced parts of Italy.
