Lisbon seems to be on everyone’s travel list these days. When I visited in 2017, it was still a little under the radar, but today Portugal’s capital has become one of Europe’s most popular city breaks.
Although Lisbon isn’t one of my favourite European capitals, I can certainly understand its appeal. The city enjoys one of Europe’s best climates, is wonderfully walkable—if you don’t mind hills—and every climb rewards you with another spectacular viewpoint over the Tagus River and the sea of red rooftops below.
For me, Lisbon is less about ticking off famous sights and more about enjoying its atmosphere. While the magnificent Jerónimos Monastery became my favourite place in the city, I wasn’t completely won over by the food, and compared with cities like Rome or Istanbul there aren’t as many major cultural attractions that match my interests. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed wandering its steep streets, visiting the castle and admiring the colourful tiled buildings. Next time I’d love to explore more of Portugal, especially Sintra and Porto.
One thing I did notice was the number of homeless people. It was much more visible than I had expected and something that stood out during my visit.
A short history of Lisbon
Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in Europe. According to legend, it was founded by the Greek hero Odysseus on his journey home from Troy, while historians know it has been inhabited for thousands of years—long before London or Paris.
Its greatest chapter came during the Age of Discovery, when Portuguese sailors such as Vasco da Gama set sail from the Tagus River to explore Africa, Asia and the Americas. Yet the city is equally defined by tragedy. In 1755, one of Europe’s most devastating earthquakes destroyed much of medieval Lisbon and reshaped the capital forever.
What to see in Lisbon
Portugal and Lisbon is mainly known for port wine and architecture – so what are you waiting for! The weather in Lisbon is one of the best in Europe, so this is a great city for a small break – especially if you love churches.
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos – My Favourite Sight in Lisbon
If I had to recommend one place in Lisbon, it was Jerónimos Monastery.
Built in 1502 at the height of Portugal’s Age of Discovery, the monastery is one of the country’s greatest architectural masterpieces and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Before setting sail into the unknown, Portuguese sailors came here to pray for a safe voyage. Vasco da Gama himself is buried inside the church, making it one of the most important historical sites in Portugal.
The monastery is a magnificent example of Manueline architecture, a uniquely Portuguese style filled with maritime motifs. Look closely and you’ll find carved ropes, shells, anchors and other symbols celebrating the voyages that transformed Portugal into one of the world’s great maritime powers.
For me, the highlight was simply walking through the elegant cloisters. They are among the most beautiful I’ve seen anywhere in Europe and easily my favourite place in Lisbon. Even if you only have time for one major sight in the city, I would choose Jerónimos Monastery.
São Jorge Castle
Visible from most of the city, the iconic landmark is the Sao Jorge castle. I could even see it from my hotel window.
Built during the Moorish period in the 11th century, the fortress has watched over Romans, Moors and Portuguese kings alike. During the Islamic occupation, Lisbon was protected by a series of defensive walls surrounding the medina and the hilltop citadel (kasbah), the city’s political, military and religious centre. After the Christian reconquest, the medieval castle we see today was built on this site. Although little is known about the original Islamic fortress, the present castle largely dates from the medieval Gothic period.
More than the castle itself, I loved the panoramic views across Lisbon’s rooftops. Because the city is built on hills, there always seems to be another viewpoint waiting around the next corner.
Belém – Portugal's Age of Discovery
Belém is where Portugal’s golden age comes alive. And a real hot spot for an adventurer – but not for one who gets seasick.
One of the most famous sailors to leave Lisbon was Vasco da Gama. In 1497, he sailed from the Tagus River on the voyage that opened the sea route to India, changing world history forever. Along the way, he stopped in Mombasa on the East African coast—a city I’ve also written about—before continuing to Calicut in India.Â
Nearby the monastery stands the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, commemorating the explorers who transformed Portugal into one of the world’s great maritime empires.
No visit to Belém is complete without trying the famous custard tarts from Pastéis de Belém. I have to admit they weren’t really to my taste—but that’s probably a controversial opinion in Portugal.
Lisbon Churches
If you enjoy churches, Lisbon won’t disappoint.
The Lisbon Cathedral dates back to the 12th century and was built shortly after the Christian reconquest of the city. Behind the cathedral lie peaceful cloisters constructed on top of a former mosque, symbolising the city’s changing rulers through the centuries.
I also enjoyed the Church of São Roque. Its plain white exterior gives little hint of the lavish gilded interior waiting inside, and the adjoining museum is worth a visit.
Alfama
Alfama is Lisbon at its most atmospheric. My favourite neighbourhood.Â
Its maze of narrow lanes, staircases and hidden corners survived the 1755 earthquake better than most of the city. Wandering aimlessly is the best way to experience the neighbourhood, where washing hangs between colourful buildings and viewpoints reveal Lisbon’s famous sea of terracotta rooftops.
Rossio Square
Today, Rossio Square is one of Lisbon’s busiest meeting places.
It’s hard to imagine that this elegant square once hosted public executions and even sessions of the Portuguese Inquisition. Like so many places in Lisbon, there’s often a darker story hidden beneath the beautiful façades. You know I am a dark tourist finding the dark side of history everywhere.Â
Azulejos
One thing I genuinely loved about Lisbon was its colourful azulejos.
These decorative ceramic tiles cover churches, palaces and ordinary houses alike, giving the city a unique appearance. They are so important to Portuguese culture that Lisbon even has an entire museum dedicated to them.
Practical info
Portuguese cuisine is centred on the sea, and in Lisbon you’ll find plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside grilled meats, cheeses and pastries. Salt cod (bacalhau) is the national dish and is said to be prepared in hundreds of different ways. I do not care for it, but you might.Â
The iconic yellow trams are more than just a postcard image—they’re one of the best ways to explore Lisbon’s steep hills. Take Tram 28 for the classic route through Alfama and the historic centre. The city is certainly walkable, but you’ll appreciate the tram after climbing a few of those hills.
Final thoughts on Lisbon
Lisbon didn’t quite become one of my favourite European capitals, but I’m still glad I visited. Its castle, monasteries, viewpoints and maritime history make it well worth a few days, and the city’s relaxed atmosphere is easy to enjoy.
More than anything, the trip left me wanting to see more of Portugal. Next time I’d head for the UNESCO Sites of Portugal, Sintra, Porto and perhaps the Douro Valley, where I suspect I’ll find even more of the history and culture that I enjoy most.
If you’re interested in Europe’s great maritime cities, you might also enjoy my guides to Riga and Istanbul, where trade, exploration and history have shaped the cities in very different ways.
What do you like most about Lisbon?
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Stunning photos!
Thank you!
dear Dane, it was interesting to read your impressions and see your photos about my hometown 🙂 happy travels, PedroL
Thanks. Yes, I also read what others write about my city Copenhagen. Happy travels to you too!
🙂