The most amazing beaches with turquoise waters, delicious food and ancient ruins. No wonder Albania is a growing travel destination.
The two major destinations are the capital Tirana and the southern part of the country bordering Greece. I spent a week in the south mixing a beach holiday with cultural day trips – including a UNESCO world heritage site.
But first some background information: Albania was closed land until 1991, which means tourism has being growing rapidly for only 30 years. Before this it was a popular place. After being Greek, Roman, Byzantine, it turned Ottoman. After WWI, it became Albanian, but then again shortly Italian. On your trip, you’ll definitely run into the name Skanderberg; the name Lord Alexander was given to the national hero of Albania.
After WWII, it once again become Albania, but controlled by Stalin-friendly Hoxha. He completely isolated the country, but since the 1990’s Albania is opening up its treasures. The history means the historical remnants are very diverse and the food is excellent.
DAY TRIPS IN SOUTHERN ALBANIA
Table of Contents
Sarandë
The beach town of Sarandë (Saranda in Albanian) is the offset for most travellers. Today, it’s a popular place to hang out in the sun and mainly for pleasure seekers, but it wasn’t’ always like that.
Sarandë has ancient Greek roots and was known as Onhezmus. It later became part of the Roman Empire and thrived as an important harbour. Then it came under Byzantine rule and flourished because of its strategic location near Corfu. Today, only a few remnants reflects its rich history.
And on that note: Unfortunately, I cannot recommend Sarandë, if you (like me) enjoy peace and quiet and exploring history. The city is the place for charter holidays, party ships, strip clubs and night clubs. The nicest thing I can say, is that it’s conveniently located and has some cosy beach bars. Luckily, since Albania is still a bit unexplored, it’s probably the most chill of its kind. But anyway, I recommend staying further away from the city.
Lëkurësi Castle
Lekuresi Castle or Lekursi is without contest the biggest attraction in Sarandë. For a castle lover like myself, I probably was a bit more excited than the castle deserves.
Lekursi Castle was built in 1537 by the Ottoman emperor Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (you’ll know the guy if you been to Istanbul). Suleiman attacked Corfu and needed control over the harbour and the Saranda-Butrint road and the castle had the perfect location giving protection against the Venetians.
Later, the castle was raided by Ali Pasha of Tepelena in the 18th century. It has not been in use since 1878. Today, the castle is mainly a large restaurant, event space, pizzeria and the perfect(!) sunset bar overlooking the bay and the city. It’s free to visit.
Synagogue Complex and basilica of Onhezmi
You have to look for it. It’s on a corner near Rruga Skënderbeu.
The complex consist of ruins of a synagogue and a basilica. It was once the centre of a wealthy Jewish community. Most likely, the Christian basilica was built in the 4th century and that it was later transformed into a synagogue before finally even converted into a church again.
What is suppose to be the most interesting thing is a mosaic floor depicting Jewish symbols such as a ram’s horn and a menorah. Other mosaics are a fish, different animals, trees and symbols and a shrine. I went there 2 times in 40 degrees, but didn’t find any mosaics. Annoying! Researching this post, I found 10 websites saying you can see it – and 1 saying it’s covered up!
Church and mosque
I’m guessing only a handful of visitors find their way here. And that’s only because it’s close to the beach promenade.
The Church of Saint Charalambos on the other hand is free to enter. It’s the largest Greek Orthodox church in Sarandë which is not saying much. Unless you’re a bored culture vulture like me, skip both. The most interesting thing is Charalambos – a saint that allegedly lived to 113 years old.
Museum of Traditions
The Museum of Traditions is located in the old Customs House just a short step away from the marina (which only a very few people take) It shows the cultural heritage of Sarandë – although I found the cultural heritage a lot more interesting than this museum. On the second floor is a collection of ethnographic objects illustrating everyday life like musical instruments, interesting b/w photos of people in traditional clothing and a kitchen.
Onhezmi Archeological Museum
Just across the street from the traditional museum is the archaeological museum (entrance with a combined ticket). Calling it a museum might be a stretch, since it’s a room with 5 replicas and some old photographs. It did have a mosaic floor, which helped a little after not finding it by the ruin.
Again what was most interesting was the lady working there. She was the most enthusiastic person. She had been a guide at Butrint National Park, but due to a head injury she couldn’t work there anymore. From her we learned that the two museums – or rather the municipality- hire locals with different disabilities. I recommend visiting and supporting the two museums for that reason alone.
Monastery of 40 saints
For some unknown and baffling reason, I didn’t discover the Monastery of 40 Saints, while I was in Albania. So as not to have this happen to you, I’ve included it.
The monastery was destroyed during WWII, but you can see the ruins. The internet says it has played a key role in the history of the city by giving the city its name, Agi Saranda. It means “Forty Saints” in Greek. How did I miss this? It’s declared a national monument.
Butrint Archeological Park
This I did not miss! Butrint is the biggest attractions in all of Albania. With good reason. This ancient attraction was the primary reason why I went to this part of Albania. This place is epic!
- The tower
- The chapel of Asclepius
- The flooded chapel
- Agora
- Gymnasium turned church
- The baptistery
- A 1500 year old basilica
- The museum in a reconstructed Venetian fort
- The columbarium (funeral place)
- Lions gate
Butrint is only 30 mins. drive from Sarandë, the entrance is around 10 euro. We spent 2 hours, but could have used a lote more time , but our son was alone at the hotel and it was HOT. The parking lot is not big enough for everyone so arrive early or late.
Butrint National Park
Corfu, Greece
It might seem weird to have Greece in a post about Albania, but not only is the beautiful island only a short 1,5 h ferry ride away, it’s also the nearest airport for Sarandë.
The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since the city and harbour dominated by its Venetian fortresses is an outstanding architectural example of a fortified Mediterranean port.
Stroll along the narrow streets of the old city and find small squares and secret passages. But stay away from the main street in summertime, when it’s crowded. I gave up visiting the fort from the inside because of the long queue and the heat. Luckily, by the harbour are a few tiny beaches to cool down.
Notice you leave or enter the EU, since Albania is not a part of it, but Greece are. So there’s border control that can take some time and you have to bring your passport. The fast ferry takes 30 min. and costs 50 euro t/r. It’s also important to remember there’s a time difference – so make sure to double-check or you might miss the boat. During high season, book a ticket in advance.
Gjirokastër
The hillside city of Gjirokastër is alongside Berat a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Named “the city of stone” It’s about 1 hours drive from Sarandë on a very winding road through mountains. Like in more famous Berat, it’s the special architecture of the Ottoman slate roofed mansions that make up the site value. It’s also the birthplace of Enver Hoxha.
The city goes back 2500 years and towering above is the impressive 800 year old fort. The name of the city actually devices from the Greek Argyrokastron meaning the Silver Fort. The castle is the biggest in Albania and during communist times it served as a prison.
A great spot for lunch – especially if it’s hot – is Zekate House/Odaja Restaurant. Try the traditional rice ball. Lunch: 18 euro for 2!
We accidentally drove up the wrong way, and it turns out you get the best views of the castle and the city from the opposite hill top. And a lot more authentic part of the city – and no crowds.
Blue Eye
The spring is located about 30 mins drive inland. It’s a 50 meters deep natural pool and spring.
When we passed it, it was scorching hot and our son was alone at the hotel and had been all day, so we drove by. I would have liked to see it though.
But the spring is also the water source for the river Bistricë that ends in the Ionian Sea. This means it runs all along the road and you can see the amazing colour.
The beaches
The reason the beaches of Albania is at the end is NOT because of their quality, but because I am a cultural traveller. The beaches near Sarandë are some of the most amazing, I’ve ever seen in Europe. It even tops the ones I went to in Cyprus last year and the ones I often frequent on Crete (Summer Like a Local on Eastern Crete, Greece!)
BUT: You have to pay to visit many of the beaches! Most are 10 euro pax – and that’s even if you only stay for an hour.
Free Public Beach
The public beach in Sarandë is free, but not exceptional. But then you get parasols, lifeguard and bathrooms.
I didn’t go to the public beach as it was very crowded. But it’s free and in the early morning very nice and quiet with only the maintenance workers there and a few locals taking a morning swim.
Edon-Bina Beach
As amazing as it looks. We came late in the afternoon and bargained the price down meaning we almost had the entire beach to ourselves. You can’t drive here, but have to talk a short, but steep walk down.
Ksamil Bay
Wow! Only 15 mins from Sarandë. You go to famous Lori beach, but then you continue to a small piece of sand by Sea Breeze Seaside Bar. The fee was 10 euro and it closed at 8 pm, so sadly no evening swimming. In general, the beaches near Ksamil are gorgeous, and I would probably stay here – if I come back.
GOOD TO KNOW ABOUT ALBANIA
- When Avoid July. It might not be overly touristy (yet), by the weather can be extremely hot and prices are higher.
- Food in southern Albania is a lot of fish. Like Arjat’s Fish restaurant.
- Transportation Without a car it’s is very difficult to get around. But renting a car and driving in Sarandë can be time consuming. There’s only one narrow main road and with the big tourist buses as well as the locals way of parking (everywhere at anytime) everything comes to a halt. We rented from Alamo and it took 3 hours (poor service included) to get the car.
- Beaches You pay to frequent the amazing beaches. If you don’t want to make sure your hotel has a private beach. Ours didn’t and we ended up paying the hotel across the road 20 euro per day to use it! You obviously don’t have to, but my son has autism and this was the beach we had promised him – and we can’t just change that.
- Sleep Where to stay? Well I stayed, but I will not recommend it because of the tourist buses and the beach bar on the street in front. I would recommend not staying in Sarandë all together, or further out maybe after the harbour.
I hope you found inspiration to add Albania to your travel list. It’s no wonder the tourist number are skyrocketing with the beautiful nature, cultural treasures and low prices.
Balkan is one of my favourite regions. Also consider visiting World Heritage in Kotor, Montenegro! and Bulgaria Plovdiv, Bulgaria: Culture Capital or just drive 30 minutes south into Greece.
Would you put Albania on your travel list?
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