Finland – or Suomi – is the land of a 1000 lakes, birch trees and reindeers. It’s the least visited country in the Nordics, although in recent years, the north part of the country has gain interest from travellers due to the Aurora Borealis. But the capital Helsinki is still overlooked.
The capital of Finland holds a special place in my heart. My grandmother was Finnish, and a DNA test shows, that I’m 33% Finnish. Okay, I wasn’t exactly born in a sauna, but I can count to 3: yksi, kaksi, kolme…
Helsinki is often found less interesting compared to other Nordic capitals like Copenhagen and Stockholm (Oslo is the most boring sorry). I understand why, and I also prefer my hometown of Copenhagen, but travel a little deeper and you’ll find an unique quirkiness in Helsinki.
The standing joke is that a Fin is someone who drinks vodka, always carry a knife and don’t speak a word. In my experience with my own family there’s a grain of truth in it. But who doesn’t like vodka and silence?
With a language more connected to Hungarian than any of the other Nordic countries, the Fins are in a league of their own. Having Russia as a neighbour and former alliance and part of the Swedish empire (and further back the Danish), Finland is not an old country. And that’s makes for interesting cultural exploration. The city is the northernmost city with more than 1 million inhabitants and the northern most capital in the EU.
HOW TO SPEND A WEEKEND
IN HELSINKI
Table of Contents
WHAT TO DO IN HELSINKI
Enjoy world-class architecture, a top notch contemporary art museum, an unusual library, a church in a cliff, shop Moomin and Marimekko until you drop, enjoy a reindeer kebab and Finnish like a Fin in the sauna. Uncover my recommendations to top sights in Helsinki and one hidden sight as well as my must-try list.
Arrive by train and you’re already enjoying the architecture of Helsinki. The central station is from 1919 and a pearl of Art Nouveau architecture.
Helsinki cathedral
Or Tuomiokirkko. The big white cathedral in the centre is the symbol of Helsinki. My grandmother was married to my grandfather here, so for me it’s the essence of Helsinki. It is more impressive from the outside than inside, but go in if possible.
The neoclassical cathedral stands on top of a high staircase – a perfect place for sunset.
An older church that stood on the square was demolished, but it’s bell was reused in the new tower. It might look old, but it was only finished in 1852. The impressive dome is 80 meters above sea level, but it’s the huge staircase in front, that is the most popular hang out spot.
Firstly, named the Nicholas Church after Russian tsar Nicholas I. Why? Well, Finland and Russia’s histories are closely intertwined in this time of history. It was Nicholas who begun the building of the cathedral, when Russia was in control of the area. After Russia came Sweden, and the cathedral was renamed Great Church. Not until 1959, it became Helsinki cathedral.
Suomenlinna Sea Fortress
Helsinki also has a UNESCO World Heritage Site: The fortress of Suomenlinna. Sometimes known as Sveaborg. I’ve been to Helsinki countless times, but it wasn’t until 2024, I visited the island.
The old island fortress is the main sight. On a warm summer day it’s the best place to be.
The history of the fortress can be divided into 3 period: the Swedish, the Russian and the Finnish. Besides the presence of the Danes in the Middle Ages, the fortress tell the story of Finland itself.
Sweden lost its superpower status in the wars with Russia. So in 1747, the Swedish parliament built a fortress and named it Sveaborg. The fortress was never completed or involved in actual battles. In 1808, it was besieged and surrendered to the Russians, and an Orthodox church was built.
The military importance of the fortress declined in the 1800s. The fortress was bombarded in 1855, and became heavily damaged. 50 years later repairs began.
The story continues: During WWI, the fortress was one of many designed to protect the Russian capital St. Petersburg. With the Russian Revolution and Finland’s independence, the fortress was renamed Suomenlinna (‘Castle of Finland’).
In the 1960-70s, the army left completely and the fortress was renovated for residential use and tourism. So now it’s your turn.
Suomenlinna was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1991 and is one of most popular tourist attractions in Finland.
To get here, take a ferry from the harbour. You can buy a ticket at the spot or online. In summertime it’s popular. It only takes about 15 minutes and is one the better ferry trips – even when you get seasick.
KIASMA - Museum of Contemporary Art
Kiasma is one of the best museums for modern and contemporary art in Europe – if you ask me. Just like Louisiana Museum in Denmark. It’s always worth a visit. The architecture alone is exceptional. Kiasma is Finnish for chiasma – a genetic thing that the building is sculpted over.
If you’re on a budget, there’s free entrance every first Friday in the month. The gift shop is also pretty cool – like any design store in Helsinki.
Old market hall
The old market hall might not be big, but I remember, when my grandmother came here, she got all nostalgic about the ingredients of her childhood.
For more than 130 years, the market hall has passed bear meat and reindeer across the desk. You can sit inside, but if the weather is okay, grab your delicacies and sit outside on the square or bring it to the Suomenlinna as described further down.
Central Library Oodi
Once again, I’m partial. One of my relatives work for the company build this unusual library, that opened in 2018. Not only is it unusual architecture, it’s also energy-efficient.
The three different floors are for different activities, so whether you want to read, play chess or borrow a guitar, they got it. The top floor is called Book Heaven and is indeed a light, airy hang out space. If you’re on a architectural tour, make sure to add this to your itinerary.
The temple the cliff – Temppeliaukio kirkko.
The temple church is not something you see everyday. Carved out of the rock. Another stop for architecture buffs.
The church is excavated directly into solid rock from 1969. The church hall is covered with a copper dome with 180 skylights. The whole place is like a movie set; I mean the altarpiece is an ice-age made narrow opening in the wall! Check the calendar for concerts and enjoy the excellent acoustics.
When I say that Helsinki is unlike other Nordic capitals: this is one of the reasons. It’s just somewhat more weird.
Ateneum Art museums
To the Maiden of the Rainbow, Fairest daughter of the Northland, Sing the drinking-songs of Pohya.
You should read up on the Finnish national epic poem “Kalevala”. The collection of old folklore songs are background for many motifs in Finnish art. You are sure to run into it in the largest collection of art in Finland in a beautiful building from 1887. The collection spans from the 18th century to Modernism.
Besides excellent Finnish artists as Akseli Gallen-Kallela and Helene Schjerfbeck, international artists include Paul Cézanne, Marc Chagall, Paul Gauguin, Vincent van Gogh, Danish Vilhelm Hammershøi, Amedeo Modigliani and Pablo Picasso.
In here you’ll find many paintings connected to the myths of Kalevala. The next guy was also fascinated by the legend.
Sibelius monument
If you want to know the Finnish mentality, you have to listen to Sibelius. My grandmother always Sibeeeelius in a low voice. When she died we played “Finlandia”. The music always gives me a melancholic feeling.
Jean Sibelius is the national composer of Finland. As you might know by now, Finland is a rather new country and the music of Sibelius helped develop a strong Finnish identity (as culture do). The monument in the park of the same name looks like organ pipes, but he didn’t really write for organ. But I still like it.
Uspenski Cathedral - the orthodox church
Another example of how the Finnish capital is different and less Scandinavian than its sister capitals is the presence of an Orthodox church. Built in 1868, the Uspenski Cathedral is considered to be the largest Orthodox temple in Northern and Western Europe.
Personally, I really like the Orthodox churches and their golden onion domes. But more importantly, they testify to the pretence of a different culture than in the other Nordic countries. One that is felt a lot more present to day for the Finnish people.
Helsinki city museum
I know from my grandmother’s stories, that life was a lot tougher in her days. She helped her sister take care of 6 children. If you want to get a glimpse of the days before the happy-nordic-welfare-system of today, jump inside the city museum just across the cathedral. Especially with kids.
City center
I’ve just been to Delhi and seen the lotus temple – a place for all religions. Helsinki has something similar: Kammpi Chapel, where everyone is welcome for a moment of silence. It does have a cross though.
For a green stroll head to Esplanadi Park. Locally known as Espa, the green long area are full of flowers and benches and hosts concerts and art exhibitions. Here, you’ll also find one of the oldest restaurants in Helsinki: Kappeli.
You should also try venture out to the outskirts of town.
Ruoholathi Area
Not many venture out here in the eastern corner of the city. But at the end of this harbour-gone- residential are, you’ll find the Museum of Photography and it’s worth the walk. The industrial area near the Cable Factory also has a theatre, a culture house. It all holds a real west-Berlin vibe (which west-Berlin doesn’t really have anymore).
Must try in Helsinki
- A sauna trip. Sauna is an excessively big deal in Finland. A relative of mine said that when you build a new house you start with the sauna. I remember many a summer in Finland as a child first chopping word, then helping my grandmother light a fire in the sauna stove and getting birch branches. When the sauna is hot, you add some water on the hot stone on the stove, creating a high humidity. Then we beat each other with the fresh birch branches. The smell is amazing and green. There are several public saunas.
- Reindeer kebab. I really like reindeer. You’ll also find this in Norway, but in Helsinki. I bought mine in the old market hall.
- Shopping Moomin and Marimekko. Other notable local items are Alvar Aalto vases and Fazer chocolate and liquorice.
Practicalities in Helsinki
- HOTEL I stayed at Hotel Helka (affiliated link to Hotels.com: You pay the same, but I get a commision). It’s artsy and I liked it. I think it’s a LGBT hotel. But will probably stay in a different neighbourhood next time.
- MONEY Helsinki is a bit expensive and coming from a Dane, that’s unfortunately very expensive for most.
- DURATION 2 days is enough to see most attractions and have time for some shopping.
- WHEN You can visit all year around. Peak season is summer, but Finland can have a lot of mosquitoes. I would go in spring or autumn. Winter if you want snow and are going north for Aurora.
- MORE TIME? If you have more time catch a train or rent a car and drive to the 1000 lakes of Finland. From Helsinki you can also take a day trip to Estonia and Tallinn, which I tried as a child. But I’ll have to go back for a real visit for at least 24 hours, so I can count it on my country-list.
If you want to compare to the rest of the Nordic, explore on Backstage Pass to Top Sights in Cosy Stockholm, Sweden or Insider Tips to Discover Copenhagen, Denmark’s Free Sights
Kiitos! Which Nordic capital do you prefer?