If you don’t know whether you should travel to Uzbekistan at all, the answer is much shorter: YES! But which the epic Silk Road cities should you prioritise?
Uzbekistan is home to two of maybe the most famous silk road cities: firstly Samarkand and secondly Bukhara.
Now that you have decided to travel to Uzbekistan, should you visit Samarkand or Bukhara? Or wondering where to spend the most time? The Travelling Dane will help you as I visited in 2019. This is the battle of the titans.
UZBEKISTAN SHOWDOWN: BUKHARA VS SAMARKAND
Uzbekistan is a country of trading riches, invading Mongols, learned scientists and the most beautiful architecture in the world. The capital feels former-Soviet, the landscape otherworldly and the countryside very rural.
Uzbekistan’s two most famous cities are famous for their architecture. First a little help: a madrasa is a school. Both of the ancient Silk Road cities are on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
If you want to know my favourite, read on…
Table of Contents
BUKHARA
First up is Bukhara. Just writing about Bukhara makes me smile. Such beauty.
Oh and fun story: The French actor Gerard Depardieu was in town, when we visited – and we dined next to him. It had something to do with Russia. We saw him again the next day being driven around in a golf cart.
Bukara or Buxoro has a long history. It is the most holy city and is obviously pre-Russian (unlike the capital Tashkent). Bukhara fell under Sanid sate in the 9th and 10th century.
In 1220, Genghis Khan was here – yes the actual Genghis Khan raided the city. And 150 years later, Timur, the Khan’s successor re- visited. Then in the 16th it became part of the sahybanid. And this is where most of the monuments are from.
WHAT TO SEE IN BUKHARA
Kalan Mosque
Lyab-i Hauz
Ulugbek Madrasah
Ulugbek Madrasah is the oldest madrasah in Central Asia and from 1417! The structure was built by the best architect at the time. Named after Ulugh Beg – a famous astronomer. That is the reason behind it’s beautifil decorations with astral designs.
There’s a very expensive café Ulugbek café which overlooks the place and the square, but it has wifi.
Ark of Bukhara
If you get tired of marvellous tiles, visit the Ark.The impressive fortress was built in the 5th century and is the oldest structure in the city. It was covered in neon lights, and you could ride a camel on the square in front of it. I’m guessing there are more of that now.
Inside the ark is a coronation hall, and that’s always something. The museum is not life changing, but it’s decent. I was expecting a great view from the top, but unfortunately it’s not a good as hoped. But you’ll survive – if you’re a fortress lover like me.
Ismail Samani Mausoleum
Not all travellers come here, but I’m a dark tourist and will dig up any mausoleums (not literally). The actual monument is not that big, but still elaborately decorated. Furthermore, it is surrounded by a park popular with lovers and some broken down entertainment and a nice lake. We had bought some lunch beforehand and enjoyed it in the park.
GOOD TO KNOW ABOUT BUKHARA
- WEDDINGS Bukhara is clearly also considered beautiful by the locals. I think we saw 6 couples taking wedding pictures.
- TRANSPORT You can easily take the high speed train from Tashkent in 4 hours and from Samarkand in 2 hours. The train station is about 20 km outside of town, so you need a ride. I got one from the hotel.
- DURATION You need at least 2 days. 1 is not enough.
- WHERE TO STAY We stayed at a caravanserai Mekhti Akbare – a camel stop in the old days (which is 1622). Accommodation like this is highly commendable. We were the only ones staying the night, and it doesn’t look like much, but what a history, it’s cheap and has a really nice terrace and breakfast. But I can see that since we visited, a bunch of nice hotels in old buildings have popped up, so you can find something a bit more upscale: Find hotels in Bukhara here (affiliated link: you pay the same, but I get some of the profit to travel for)
- EAT & DRINK In Uzbekistan they love tea. I had the best tea on the square in front of the Ark, but otherwise it was difficult to find outodoor cafés. Maybe as the tourists start coming….
- SOUVENIRS Just outside of BUkhara, we visited a silk factory. Go if you can.
And now the contender…
SAMARKAND
We travel not for trafficking alone; By hotter winds our hearts are fanned: For lust of knowing what should not be known We take the Golden Road to Samarkand.
WHAT TO SEE IN SAMARKAND
Shah-i-Zinda
My favourite place in Samarkand was actually the avenue of mausoleums and not the more famous Registan (I’m a dark tourist, I know). The name means tombs of the living kings and that’s just up my alley (or avenue). Maybe it’s because I work in royal mausoleum – or maybe I’m just weird – but the site had a special atmosphere and solemnity.
The mauseoleum contains many important people: maybe most notably Kusam Ibn Abbas – the cousin of Muhammad – who brought Islam to Uzbekistan.
Built in the 13-1500s and it is a display of the most stunning tilework. Many tombs are restored recently, but you can find some original mosaic tiles. The mausoleums are very different inside and you should visit when the light is good.
Afrasiyab
You can see a mural – a rare example of Sogdian art. It shows Samarkand before the Mongols came. Not many tourists (or locals) go here, since it’s a bit further out but if you want to travel deeper, this is a place to include in your itinerary.
Ulugbek Observatory
An observatory built in 1420s! And one of the largest astronomical observatories built in the period. It’s about 10 minutes from Afrosiyab.
I may not understand all the instruments and calculations, but just like the observatory in Jaipur, India it’s very fascinating. Obviously named after the aforementioned Sultan and grandson of Timur, who also wrote poetry and was very interested astronomy
Gur-Emir
A mausoleum to sultan Timur (also known as Tamerlane). It has a magnificent portal and a newlywed couple was posing in front it.
This is another monument with incredible architecture and very atmospheric setting in a lovely garden. This mausoleum was extremely richly decorated. This was one of the most moving mausoleums, I’ve been to. And that’s saying a lot.
Timur did not live to see the mausoleum finished, when he died in 1405. The construction was completed by the guy who’s name you know remember: Timur’ grandson – Ulugh Beg (yes, that guy). Although Timur had already prepared a mausoleum in Shakhrisabz, Gur Emir became his tomb and a burial place of his descendants.
Bibi-Khanoum
I remember this place, because we stayed in a hotel literally right next to it – as you can read further down.
Registan Square
Registan will have to get it’s own post. An iconic place with unparalleled beauty. After visiting Taj Mahal in 2024, I think these two monuments are the most beautiful places I’ve been so far (57 countries). But because there ware so fewer people in Uzbekistan, it was a much better experience than the crowded and noisy Taj.
During the Timurid Empire, this public square was a commercial centre with a bazaar and used for royal announcements. The characteristic blue tiles of Samarkand can be seen everywhere. These madrasahs are some of the world’s oldest.
As you can see; when I visited a couple was just taking pictures and for some reason a giant air balloon was right in front of the Registan Square. So I came back int he evening for a picture and guess what? In the evenings there’s a light show. So it was not to easy getting a good pic.
When you get inside, find the secret tea spot for a perfect selfie. And remember that the decorations looking like a tiger are really lions.
GOOD TO KNOW ABOUT SAMARKAND
- TRANSPORT You can easily take the high speed- train from Tashkent or Bukhara in just 2 hours
- DURATION You need at least 2 nights and 3 is perfect.
- VIBE Samarkand is more modern compared to Bukhara with neon lights and big road. But here I was stopped by young people wanting to practice their English.
- EAT & DRINK In the old part of the Russian neighbourhood, you can find some fun restaurants, where they will serve you vodka with your beetroots and white whine with your vodka.
- WHERE TO STAY We stayed at the unparalleled located Bibikhanoum hotel. If it’s sold out, try other hotels nearby here.(affiliated link: you pay the same, I get part of the profit)
CONCLUSION: my favourite city in Uzbekistan
The conclusion is: You should visit both!
But if you only have time to visit one of them (if you are taking all 5 Stan’s at once), I would recommend Samarkand. Bukhara was definitely the city of the two with the most ambience and relaxed atmosphere. But for a cultural traveller the combination of iconic Registan and the incredible tombs, crowns Samarkand the winner. But it’s not a knock-out – it only wins by points.
Of course, there is a third contender: Khiva. Unfortunately, I didn’t visit because the train tracks didn’t reach that far at the time, so it’s not really a contender…
More of Uzbekistan? Head to the mountains and Stay With the Locals in Nurata. If you are a lover of World Heritage Sites find my favourite UNESCO Sites here!
Are you planning to visit Central Asia?
Discover more from The Travelling Dane
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.