Updated July 2024 with even more free sights
Denmark is expensive. But luckily, the city also have some free sights – outdoor and a few indoor. I’m a Copenhagen’er, and I’ve selected a few of my own favourites.
A secret garden, a church, a citadel, a bridge, 3 lakes and a classic top sight. AND a surprise! Here’s my guide on how to enjoy the capital of Denmark without spending a dime, while getting fresh air.
7 free sights in Copenhagen
A SECRET GARDEN
A secret garden? Well, I live here, and I didn’t discover this hidden green spot for 20 years. The Garden of the Royal Library is behind the old library and is definitely one of my favourite free isghts in Copenhagen.
In the middle of the garden is fountain spying water every hour to honour the written word. What is even more interesting is that it used to be a harbour! And not only any harbour – a place for war ships 400 years ago. One of the pictures in the slideshow show a metal ring for mooring still in place, but now beneath a bench. And that’s were you should sit. Watch the ducks and enjoy the calm. Maybe with a book!
Speaking of the written word: For the cultural traveller, there is something more interesting than the statue of fairy-tale writer Hans Christian Andersen on the Town Square. And that’s a statue of the Danish philosopher Søren Kierkegaard.
Even if you haven’t read him, you’ve have probably heard of a “leap of faith” or “not to dare is to lose oneself”. He is just full of bonmots – try google quotes by him. But more appropriately on a travel blog, he also said: “I know of no thought so burdensome that one cannot walk away from it.”
The Royal Library Garden is hidden behind fences and walls between the old library and the entrance to the Danish Parliament. But if you head for the entrance of the Jewish Museum, you’ll find it.
GUNS & GREENS
Built by a Dutch specialist during the Renaissance, Kastellet is one of the best preserved fortified citadels in Northern Europe. Today, it’s one of the best green spaces in Copenhagen, and it’s free!
January 1 1671:
On this first day of the year 1671, 27 canon shots are fired as a welcome to the new year. Real canon balls are used. From now on, shots will be fired every year on the same day.
Boom, boom, boom, booom, boom, boom. 6 shots alltogether. The earth trembled. The officer noted the canon balls a s lost in his books. But they have value. If a citizen finds one, he can claim a small reward.
The old mill is not so old – only a 150 years – but it’s still Copenhagen’s oldest mill. Two older mills use to be here making flower for the solider’s daily bread in the 1700s. Every year (except this corona one) on the third Sunday in June, you can visit old mills all over in Denmark. Also this one.
LAKE TOWN
Denmark is country surrounded by water, and this also goes for the capital. Copenhagen has many canals as well as 3 large lakes and their all excellent free sights. But I’ve chosen the Inner Lakes of Copenhagen. (I had no idea this was their real names! I just discovered this now researching for this article.) Well, everybody calls them The Lakes.
By walking all, you pass through 3 different parts of Copenhagen: Østerbro, Nørrebro and Frederiksberg.
Back in the old days this was 1 stream in a natural low area created during the Ice Age. The first lake was constructed in the Middle Ages to power mills. The second and the third lakes was meant as a fortification of Copenhagen against attacks from the Swedes. Later, they were used as drinking water reservoir (yes, really). Now, you can skte on them in the wintertime, have lunch in summer and some even fish.
In the 60’s some crazy politician suggested a 4-lane road circulating them. Instead, it became a protected area. Phew… But that’s not the only crazy thing: on one of the lakes is a tiny island called Bird Island. In 1967, activists liberated Bird Island and named it a free state. You might smile, but freetown Christiania was “liberated” in 1971.
If you take a tour around all 3 lakes and back again, it’ll be 6,4 km added to your daily exercise. On a sunny day, buy something cold and head for the Dronning Louises Bridge with a cold drink and some loud music. If you feel energetic, you can rent a swan from Kaffesalonen.
GRUNDTVIG'S CHURCH
Just outside the main area of Copenhagen, you find one of the most beautiful churches in the world. And you can visit it for free.
In the area of Bispebjerg lies a hidden architectural gem. Grundtvig’s Church is named after and was erected in honour of the famous Danish priest, poet, and reformer N.F.S. Grundtvig (1783 – 1882). The monumental church is built as a modern gothic cathedral. But it’s the inside that will blow you away.
Started by his father, but completed by the son Kaare Klint in 1940. The style with extensive use of Gothic elements such as pointed arches and the use of daylight defines it as a sacred space aimed to achieve the greatest possible simplicity. Kaare Klint also designed the chairs – a chair known today as the church chair – a Danish furniture design classic.
A TRUE CLASSIC
Recognize her? It’s the famous little mermaid from the fairytale by Danish writer Hans Christian Andersen. If often hear and read from travellers, that she’s a disappointment. Especially, the size of the statue is mentioned. But I don’t get. I like her! She has to be #1 top free sight in Copenhagen.
The artist behind was very skilled, won a gold medal at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and even made sculptures for the king’s funeral monument – including a figure called “the mermaid’s sister”. Of course, you need to know the story (not the Disney one) to understand this national icon. No one notices her sacrifice and hence the artwork must be of insignificant size.
But most of all: size doesn’t matter. It’s not: the bigger – the more important. And Denmark is a tiny country, so I think she’s just the right size. She might not be the best work of art in the world, but give her a chance. Well, the defence rests.
To find go towards the area called Langelinje behind Amalienborg, where the queens lives. And it’s right next to Kastellet, I mentioned before. You can walk along the harbour front. All the canal boats will also pass her, but she turns he back to them. So visit her yourself in the morning, when the setting sun lights up her face and with fewer tourists.
SURPRISE!
Now to the promised surprise that not even many Danes know. If you’re not into the classics but want a twist, there’s actually another mermaid. Despite I like the original, this one is even cooler and made by a female artist.
Made in 1921 by Anne Marie Carl Nielsen, this is an actual mermaid. The original is in The National Gallery of Denmark, but as it is not for free you can see a copy by the Black Diamond. (Maybe I should make you guys a map in this article…)
ELEPHANTS IN DENMARK?
So this is one that shows how great my hometown is. You can visit a part of the zoo – for free.
The trick is to go into the fantastic and charming park of Frederiksberg Have. Finding the right corner, you see part of the adjacent Zoo park and right into the area of the elephants.
The elephant House is designed by famous architect Norman Foster and from 2008. Everytime I pass it, the elephants are out in the 3350 m2large outdoor area pulling on chains or playing.
GOING ROUND AND ROUND
The last free sight in Copenhagen I will recommend is the Circle Bridge. It’s not the tallest or the largest, but one of the most elegant I’ve ever seen.
The Circle Bridge is designed by Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson. It draws on Denmark’s naval history and the many ships that once was in the harbour. It might not be fastest way to get from A to B by this bridge, but sometimes it’s the road there that’s the fun part.
Too cold outside? Head for another favourite sight in Copenhagen: Botanical garden – an oasis. Or prefer the outdoors? How about the summer island of Moen, that will get the kids into geology.
I’m definitely a fan of the classics. Which kind of traveller are you?